Archive for the ‘20th Century’ Category

GBACG’s Last Dinner on the Titanic

Pre-dinner iPhone pic

Pre-dinner iPhone pic

I had an amazing time at the Greater Bay Area Costumer’s Guild’s Last Dinner on the Titanic, which commemorated the 100th anniversary of the ship’s sinking on April 14, 2012. This costumed dinner & dance took place at the Bellevue Club in Oakland, CA.

Everyone was seated at tables of 10, & our group decided to portray real first-class passengers & talk about period topics. This was SO MUCH FUN! I was Miss Edith Rosenbaum, a fashion journalist living in Paris (I made up a story about borrowing my fabulously overdone jewels & tiara from that poor little Astor girl, so ill with morning sickness she just couldn’t come to the dining room, but we’d become friends when her maid saw my trunks of Poiret sample dresses I was taking back to New York — I gave one to the 18-year-old Mrs. Astor). Sarah was Mrs. Florence Cummings, & Francis was Mr. John Bradley Cummings, a New York stockbroker. Mrs. Cummings & I met in the ship’s hair salon on the first day aboard, that’s why we arrived at dinner together. Kendra was Miss Madeleine Newell & Jenny-Rose (visiting from Virginia) was her younger sister Marjorie, both ladies were returning from a grand tour that included Palestine & the Middle East — this explained Kendra’s gorgeous 1912 dress made from a green & gold sari. Loren (visiting from Southern California) was the couturier Lady Duff-Gordon, wearing one of her own designs, of course. Liam was Mr. Tyrell William Cavendish of England & Karen was his Chicago-born wife, Mrs. Julia Cavendish. Cathyn & Laina were Mr. & Mrs. Thorne, who were really Mr. George Rosenshine traveling with his mistress Miss Gertrude Thorne, but they assumed married names (shocking!).

Trystan in the lobby of the Bellevue Club

Trystan, aka Miss Rosenbaum, in the lobby of the Bellevue Club

We talked about everything from the latest fashions to world politics (women’s suffrage! George V’s coronation! Bolsheviks!) to the stock exchange to wonders of modern technology such as areoplanes & escalators. FAB-U-LOUS! And all it took was a quick flip through Wikipedia. Creating a tiny bit of historical context for historical costume really makes me the happiest nerd on the planet. And, of course, doing so in an utterly fantastic historical SETTING is the tastiest icing on a decadent cake. Yummy!

I wore a simple ensemble, consisting of a gown I bought from Victorian Trading Company with vintagey, plus a lot of jewelry (more details of the outfit here). I did my hair over large hair rats in a 1910s style, based on tips from this article Kendra wrote. My look was reasonably historically accurate, not perfectly, but I blended in well with the ambiance of the event.

Here are some of the photos taken by the event’s most excellent professional photographer, Richard Man:

All of my photos from the event are on Flickr.  Jenny-Rose has some more lovely event photos on Flickr.

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Shopping as Costuming

Sometimes, you just want to go to an event, even if the historical era is not your bag, baby. Maybe you’re trying something new, maybe the event sounds like fun because it’s at a fabulous venue or it has a great combo of activities, or maybe all your friends are going, or it could be all of the above. And you don’t have anything in your costume closet to wear.

Victorian Trading Company dress

Victorian Trading Company dress

I’m in exactly this position. I decided to buy a ticket to the GBACG’s Last Dinner on the Titanic, which is a very fancy recreation of the ill-fated ship’s extraordinary final meal, complete with a multicourse dinner & dancing to a live band, all in a beautiful setting (where last year we experienced the very enjoyable Petit Trianon event). 1910s is not a particular interest of mine, nor is the Titanic (& especially not the movie of the same name, bleh). But the venue & details of the event sound divine, plus all my best friends wanted to go. I toyed with various ideas of making a gown, even buying something vintage (as I used to have a perfect & authentic 1910s gown, but it shattered literally as I wore at the Costume College Gala one year).

Finally, I gave up & decided to buy something that was close-but-not-quite appropriate, or period-esque as one might say. Or, as Sarah so aptly said, we’re throwing money at the problem (because she joined me in the dress-buying spree for this event :-). I picked out the Reverie Dress from Victorian Trading Company, which I’m sure I’ll need to have professionally shortened. But hey, the cost of tailoring is less than the cost of a migraine from me fussing with all those ruffles!

Of course, a new dress requires a new tiara. None of mine had quite that Art Deco flare that the Titanic event required (in my mind, anyway). Off to eBay, where I found this baby, & oh, does it look good on. I have a load of blingy jewelry in my collection to add to the effect, plus a black burnout velvet shawl to throw around my shoulders & my 1980s vintage Bandolino two-strap pumps on my feet (same shoes I’ve worn to the Gatsby picnic). I just need some white opera gloves, & then the costume is done.

Art Deco-ish tiara

Art Deco-ish tiara

Well, all except for the backwards-documentation… see, after I picked out this dress, I wanted to figure out if it’s at least plausible for the period… here’s what I found…

I couldn’t find a 1912 evening gown with lots of ruffles, just a few tiers. But there are 1914 ruffled day dresses very much in the vein of the Victorian Trading Company dress. And the dress I bought *does* have the overall silhouette of an 1912 evening gown.  Yeah, not accurate, but close enough for me!

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Miss Hades

Miss Hades, Prom Queen From Hell

Miss Hades, Prom Queen From Hell

This is something of a belated Halloween costume — it’s what I wore to the annual PEERS Bal des Vampyres. I wanted to wear something pretty, gothy, and yet somewhat comfortable (specifically, uncorseted!). The gown was made by the ever-wonderful Donna for me to wear at the Costume College Gala two years earlier. It’s a vintage 1950s pattern, made in pink dupioni silk, worn over a huge crinoline petticoat I bought at a thrift-store.

Miss Hades, Prom Queen From Hell

Miss Hades, Prom Queen From Hell

For the ball, I decided to go as the Prom Queen From Hell. I made a “Miss Hades” sash from silver satin edged in black bat-print ribbon with letters that I painstakingly traced cut out of black satin. The whole sash is held together with FabriTac, no sewing involved.

I used a big net pouf to style my hair into a beehive, wore a black rhinestone tiara, black gloves, and some blingy jewelry. I wore black lipstick (Make Up Forever #50) and pale makeup. Not seen in these photos — big shiny black bat purse and vintage Fluevog shoes.

My pix from the event are on Flickr.

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1925 Pink & Black Dress

At the Art Deco Society of California’s Gatsby Summer Afternoon 2009…

See the rest of my Gatsby pix on Flickr.

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None moar pink

Pink necklace & earrings

Pink necklace & earrings

After buying the pictured jewelry on eBay and a pink paper parasol that I may paint black stripes on, I mostly ignored this project for a week.

Well, at some point I did finish the sash and make rosettes on pinbacks as closures/trim. And then, finally, last night, I hemmed the dress. With pink silk. Yes, it all really is that pink!

1925 Gatsby dress, done

1925 Gatsby dress, done on the dressform

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Check for snowballs in hell

I actually sewed this morning, before going to work. Shocking!

Thomas had to leave an hour before I did (very rare; he usually leaves an hour after I do), which woke me up. Instead of laying around in bed listening to NPR (one of my all-time favourite activities, but one that I do fairly frequently), I got up and got dressed (in a fairly cute CorpGoth outfit, by the way). But I still had 40 minutes before my carpool would arrive.

Instead of screwing around online, I decided to cut out and stitch the long seam of the sash for the Gatsby dress. Easy-peasy. Decided it need a couple pleats too, which I sewed down on one edge and will tack down along the middle at strategic points. I want a softly pleated look, not a hard edge. I bet I can finish the dress tonight, though that depends on if I bind the bottom with pink — making a lot of pink bias is tedious.

If I have time today, I’ll poke around online for accessories…

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Hefty garbage bag v 2.0

Mirror pic

Unflattering mirror pix ftw!

This time, it’s stripey! But still a big black sack! The most unattractive dress shape possible! But it’s historically accurate, it technically fits, and I’m going for it!

I can never get the hang of mirror pix, but it does look better on me than on the dressform. Marginally :-)

Just need to hem it, add a sash, and some rosettes for trim. All in the hot pink taffeta, of course (though I’m not sure if I’ll bind the hem in pink like the neck and sleeves; it’d be a nice match, but I may be too lazy).

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What is this “sewing” thing?

I’m half an hour into an one-hour dress for Gatsby. By the way, the one-hour dress pattern takes me about two days to make, though I did just finish all the “tricky” patterning, and I even bumped it up a notch by trying the two-piece pattern this time. It’s from a 1925 pattern booklet that Bridget scanned for a Costume College class years ago. So no, it won’t take one-hour even if I could! But it’ll be wacky for sure

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New Gatsby dress?

Don’t know if this will actually happen in time for this year’s ADSC Gatsby Summer Afternoon. But I bought a new hat at Convergence 15, a lovely hot pink confection trimmed with big black feathers and a whole bird, made by Caveat Emptor. Which is ’20s-ish in style and makes me reallyreallyreally want a dress to go with it…

Caveat Emptor pink & black hat

Caveat Emptor pink & black hat

The catalog photo doesn’t do it justice, and it, of course, looks faboo on me (because most hats do ;-). My old Gatsby dress won’t go with it, due to the color scheme, so I’ll just need something in black and pink. Perhaps in some of the styles in the gallery below, from a 1925 catalog.

The first image would be most simple to reproduce (not that I ever reproduce things exactly). The style is very straight, much like the one-hour dress I made before. But I’d have to figure out some interesting pink contrast trim down the center — perhaps buttons or frogs like the image. Which would mean buying a bunch of stuff, and I’m currently broke.

I colorized these second two images to suit my tastes…

The ruffled dress has a bit more shaping, which might be more flattering than ’20s dresses usually are on me (or anyone with curves!). I’d like to make it from black silk, as per the catalog. That dress needs some pink trim, and I have loads of hot pink ribbon in The Stash.

The stripey dress is very intriguing. It’s kind of the basic straight-shape, but with a little gathering in the skirt, maybe a blouson bodice. And then there’s this striped apron on top of the skirt. Weird! But cool! I could piece pink silk (leftover from my Carnivale francaise) with black to make the apron. Slap on some hot pink roses and *bam* wacky Gatsby dress. Hmm … which one…

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1930s Black & Grey Dress

Shortly after Gatsby 2005, I bought this dress off eBay. It was listed as 1920s, but I think the style is more ’30s. It’s a somewhat transitional shape — neither fully straight nor fully fitted in the bust or waist. The waist is dropped, and the handkerchief hem is just around the knees. The dress is made of two rayon-y fabrics, with the grey overskirt being rather chiffon-y. There’s a left-size zipper, which puts into the 1930s. But the style does make a node towards the previous decade’s fashion.

Anyway, I like the color combination (c’mon, I couldn’t wear that pastel thing again! people were already making fun of me for dressing so un-goth, un-me at Gatsby :-). The shape and fabrics had a sporty feel that seemed right for the picnic.

At Claire’s in the mall, I found a long bead-and-chain necklace with faux-jet and gunmetal beads, plus small faux-jet dangle earrings. Perfectly coordinated with the dress. I already had some 1910s-1920s shoes in black leather. Just needed a hat.

Well, I searched off and on for months and couldn’t find anything suitable. I wanted a grey cloche or rounded-crown hat I could cut down into a cloche. I didn’t want a black cloche, because that would blend in with my black hair. But I had no luck. Bid on some hats on eBay and searched thrift store, all to no avail.

Finally, I gave up. A week before Gatsby, I dug out my old black sun hat and tacked up the front. I slapped on some grey ribbon and a vintage black velvet rose. Not particularly pleased with how it turned out, but it would suffice.

Since my dear husband was joining the picnic this year, I had to find something for him to wear. That was a piece o’ cake. At the thrift store, I found a linen vest in his size (made by Banana Republic, how perfect), plus a burgundy silk tie in a small print. He already had khakis and a white button-down shirt, as well as a pale “Indiana Jones” hat he wore in Egypt. Together, the outfit had a vintage-archaeologist feel, which suited him well.

We had a grand time at Gatsby, although I don’t think I’m allowed to wear clothes made before 1950 anymore. By the end of the day, a couple seams of my dress had loosened, and by the time I got home, the underarm seams on both sleeves had ripped straight through! No fabric tears, so it could easily be mended. But I think the point is that I am not enough of a delicate flower to wear truly old vintage garments. I’ve always owned a lot of 1950s and 1960s dresses and jackets, with little or no damage. I guess I can’t go any older than that. Guess I’ll need a new dress for the next Gatsby!

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