Posts Tagged ‘burgundy 1580s court gown’

Burgundy 1580s Court Gown, Revamp

Me in the revamped gown at the Crosston Ball, photos courtesy of Chris Nelson.

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Plausible

Accomplished sewing stuff last night. Added a 3″ hook-and-eye placket to the 1580s bodice. Fits beautifully now, and while the placket is nothing great to look at, it’ll all be covered up with trim soon enough. Still need to add to the skirts waistbands, but that’s a quick fix. Then I can wear the gown again, yay!

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Seam-ripping at 6am

Explanation: I decided I wanted to wear this gown to the SCA’s Crosston Ball, but the dress no longer fit. So I came up with a way to extend the size … a week before the ball!

At 6am, riddled by insomnia, I just bit the bullet, got up, and did some seam-ripping. I removed the trim and hooks-and-eye tapes from the bodice of my 1580s gown that doesn’t fit. Took about an hour (because when I *do* hand-sew, man, I really sew shit down in there hard!). I need to add in 3″ to the center front, and this will be easy to cover with the trim — thank goodness I have more of that same trim! Wouldn’t have contemplated this fix otherwise. Debated putting in a laced placket, which would be better for multiple sizes, but I simply do not have the time to make eyelet holes. The goal is to wear this Saturday at the Crosston Ball (hello, vanity!).

I can machine-sew the hook-and-eye tape to placket strips, machine-sew the strips to the edges of the bodice, and hand-sew trim over everything, plus hand-sew pearls on the matching piece of trim. The collar won’t meet, but I can finally wear the head-on-a-plate ruff with this gown, so the collar won’t show. The front bodice point won’t meet either; not as sure what to do about that. Maybe a rosette of some sort? I do have a fancy girdle for distraction.

Speaking of distraction, yes, this is all taking valuable time away from projects that I actually *need* to work on. But, y’know, vanity. I’ve been telling myself I’d go to the Crosston Ball for the past couple years, then skipping it. If I’m finally going to go, I want to be pretty, dammit.

There’s no chance of getting the Valois gown done in time, besides, dancing in a trained gown is all kinds of stupid. And I don’t want to wear the black doublet / purple skirt to the third SCA event in a row (see: vanity).

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Burgundy 1580s Court Gown – Photo Gallery

Photos taken at Costume College by Sarah and Kendra. More of Sarah’s photos on Flickr and Kendra’s photos on her site.

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Finishing the burgundy 1580s court gown

It came down to the wire, but I did it! I finished the outfit in time and, despite some trouble actually getting to the event due to weather and map issues, I had a wonderful time at the Elizabeth and the Pirate Feast!

But first, the finishing pieces… (more…)

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Just keep sewing, just keep sewing…

Last night, I hemmed 180″ or so inches of velveteen overskirt. By hand. And stabbed myself in the thumb about two feet from the end. Where’s my Purple Heart medal now? Guess there’s the blood to add to all the sweat and tears that have gone into this costume.

I also finally sewed skirt hooks on the over and under skirts, so I won’t be resorting to safety pins on Saturday. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, of course. I still may be using safety pins on the cuffs of the sleeves, if I run out of time (or I don’t sew hooks and eyes in the car on Saturday afternoon).

Tonight, I sew the trim on the openings of the over-sleeves. This may prove tricky, at least getting it to look good around the corners. Let’s hope it’s not as bad as binding that blasted tabbed corset. Yes, I’m doing all by hand, there is no other way, it is absolutely impossible to fit this into the sewing machine.

Then Friday, while Thomas is off filming, I pearl more trim by hand (again, the only way), and sew this trim to the edges of the overskirt. I might possibly could do that on the machine, but I’ll probably do it by hand so it doesn’t show as much. And if I have time, I’ll sew the already-pearled trim to the bodice, which must be done by hand, there is no other way there.

Somewhere in the distance, I can hear Kendra cackling with glee, knowing that she’s right, it’s just better to do this crap by hand sometimes. Fine, you win. *blows raspberries, sticks out tongue, and is otherwise childish and petulant about being proved wrong*

Saturday morning, while Thomas is filming again, I hope to make an attifet. Yes, by hand. But that’s a hat, so it doesn’t count. I’ve always made hats by hand, partly because I don’t think my machine can handle it and partly because I consider hats “crafting” not “sewing” and I do enjoy crafting by hand. I can control sewing wire down by hand much better than zig-zaging wire down by machine anyway.

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Pearls before swine, or at least before coffee

My carpool driver is on vacation this week. I got a ride to work from Thomas yesterday, but I had to take the bus to work today. I decided to make the best of it and sew during the hour-long trek. Even though I don’t have coffee until I get to the office. Quelle horror!

Wasn’t too bad tho, despite a crick in my neck from looking down into my lap (I usually sew at a table). Still, I managed to pearl almost all of the trim for the second over-sleeve (Mom had finished one sleeve’s worth already). Threading a needle on the bus proved to be the hardest part. Otherwise, just a little slower than usual.

I *think* I’m coming to an uneasy truce with hand-sewing. I will never enjoy it, but we’re getting to a kind of Israel-Palestine-like arrangement. We can live side by side in a tense peace for a few years, broken by occasional rashes of suicide bombings and bloody shows of force on the other side, and the whole thing is underlaid by a deep feeling of injustice and fear. But neither one of us is ever going to back down, so we really should just suck it up and deal with each other, for fuck’s sake. Hmm, does this make my fabric stash the Arab nations or the U.N.? Maybe I shouldn’t be going with this analogy.

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Hemming & hawing

Skirts waiting to be hemmed

Skirts waiting to be hemmed

I never tire of dumb jokes. But I do tire of hand-sewing. Yes, “hand” is a four-letter word to me. So I’m taking a break before I dive into hemming the overskirt, which is now pinned up and ready to go. My back is already killing me from hemming the front of the forepart by hand.

Mom was beading the forepart on a business trip to Colorado last week (is she freakin’ awesome or what?). Now her boss is all curious about my costume too. So I really have to get some good pictures at the feast this weekend :-)

This photo shows the underskirt hemmed and the overskirt ready to be pinned for hemming. The trim is just tucked on for effect.

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Time keeps on slipping into the future

I tried semi-valiantly to get some sewing done this week. Did get all the ribbon ties on the sleeves, and tonight I assembled the base skirt for the forepart. Unfortunately, it’s a smidge short and the best way to hem it would be to add a facing or bias strip. I don’t have the time nor inclination to make that, so I guess Monday’s shopping trip will include Jo-Ann (well, Mom did say we could go wherever I wanted for my birthday; also, I have coupons!). Still need to hem the overskirt as well. I’m guessing that Mom will have finished the forepart by Monday too, so I can affix that to the underskirt next week.

Don’t have a hat, don’t have a ruff, don’t even have a collar on the bodice. Oh geez, then there’s all the trim! No idea if Mom pearled it, though that was optional. I do need to put the trim on at least the sleeves and the skirt because those have raw-ish edges that will look crappy without trim.

*sigh* I’m resigning myself to the fact that this costume will not really be done by the feast. Not as done as I want it. Not my vision of complete. I’ll be lucky if I have a hat. The head-on-a-plate ruff isn’t likely. The gown will be lovely, and I will have a finished-enough costume for the event. I just wanted the whole pretty picture. Ah well, I will *have* to make sure it’s done for the Costume College Gala! That’s in freakin’ August, so I better be able to finish it by then!

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Proof that insanity runs in my family

Completed beaded sleeves

Completed beaded sleeves

Ta-da! Mom beaded one sleeve, I beaded the other. We are certifiably nuts. She, even more so, because she’s also beading the forepart. And I married into nutjobs because my stepmom-in-law helped bead the forepart and called today to say she could come back this week and bead more. Wow. I am the luckiest (and craziest) gal alive :-).

To assemble the sleeves, I first spray-based the beaded and pearled silk onto white twill. Then I sewed that up, and sewed a bag-lining of white cotton. Sewed those together. Found some lace in The Stash, but it was a very bright white, so I dipped it in a quick tea bath to tone down the color so it better matched the ivory silk. Then I sewed that to the cuffs.

Now I need to put the ribbon ties on both sets of sleeves, plus sew some hooks on the sleeve cuffs so they close neatly. When Mom finishes pearling the trim, I can sew that on the side openings of the hanging sleeves. Not to mention trim the bodice and skirt.

In the meantime, I’m going to make the underskirt base out of white twill. Figure I can use the same pattern as for the farthingale, just a skosh bigger and make it fasten up the back. When the beading is done, I’ll spray-baste and sew the forepart to the front.

Not sure if I’ll start the hat or ruff after that. Hat is technically more important as I need to cover my head. Except I’m still not sure what kind of hat I want to make! The ruff I know all about. Yet I can’t put the hat off.

I have a surprisingly large amount of the pearled ivory silk leftover (probably could have managed with 2 yards instead of 3). So I might make a soft attifet out of that, simply wire the edge. Could alternate pearls and the red beads along the edge, if I have time to get fancy.

It’s not the more coronet-like fantasy I had, but I don’t have a real construction design for that either. I *have* made attifets before, so that is a known quantity, wouldn’t take much time. And time is not on my side right now. Less than two weeks to go. And all next weekend will be occupied with partying (yay!).

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