Posts Tagged ‘fabric’

My gown for her Laureling (yeah, that’s how I roll!)

Posted by Trystan on November 20th, 2011

Aka, finally a new 12th Night gown, aka Trystan wants a black dress, or more properly, a 1560s Medici-inspired Florentine gown.

Isabella de Medici, circa 1560 by Bronzino

Isabella de Medici, circa 1560 by Bronzino

But the impetus for this gown is that one of my best friends in the whole world, Sarah Lorraine, was offered membership in the Order of the Laurel in the Society for Creative Anachronism. For those not in the SCA, this is the highest award possible for artisans, it’s equivalent to becoming a knight, & it’s acknowledgement of what a fucking awesome rockstar Sarah is (finally!). There’s a fancy ceremony that admits her into the order, which will happen at 12th Night, the first weekend of January. And we’re dressing up, natch!

It took a while for Sarah to decide what she wanted to wear — we knew it would be 16th century & fabulous, no doubt. But there was debate about English or Italian fashions. Eventually, she went with Italian, as it’s her current fave, & it’s just so pretty. Her SCA heraldic device is in black & white, so she thought she’d wear black & white.

Sarah asked Kendra & I to be part of her ceremony, & we decided to make new dresses since neither of us had existing costumes that seemed quite right. And because we’re silly that way, we decided to play backup singers & wear black & white too! Didn’t hurt that we both had a bunch of perfectly appropriate black & white silks in our respective fabric stashes…

So, I’m taking my inspiration from this portrait of Isabella de Medici, circa 1560 by Bronzino. There’s a full-page print of it in the book Moda de Firenza that I’ve been drooling over. I won’t do an exact reproduction (I never do), but I like this gown’s basic shape, & I especially love the sleeves. I’ll do a split overskirt, which enhances the look of a veste over a sottana — which I simply do not have the time to make, so I’m faking it. Just making one gown & a petticoat. I have a ton of black silk taffeta in The Stash for the gown & a small piece of black silk embroidered with white that I’ll use for the petticoat/forepart that shows. I also have lots of pearls & silver trim that I’ll use.

Black & white embroidered silk taffeta

Black & white embroidered silk taffeta

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Leonard – the beginning

Posted by Trystan on February 2nd, 2011

I have a wild hair (hah!) to play Leonard Autie, hairdresser to Marie Antoinette, at the GBACG’s Petit Trianon event in July. Sarah will be the queen, Kendra will be Poliganc, and a bunch of our friends will be the rest of the court. When casting about for characters, I first thot Rose Bertin, but then, what’s more fun and OTT and ridiculous and, well, me? Cross-dressing as a big ol’ fop a la the Macaronis (which I’d wanted to make a costume of when I taught that class).

Leonard’s autobiography is even online for free, so you know what I’ll be adding to my iPad tonight and maybe reading on the plane to Hawaii or Williamsburg.

There are a couple lengths of purple silk in The Stash that I’d had a hankering to make into 18th-c. menswear for me (not enough for Thomas). I have some patterns and of course books. I wish I had those purple-fuchsia shoes Leonard wears in the movie! Oh well. I will TOTALLY make a giant white pouf wig — that excites me no end!!! And I’ll wear a shit-ton of foptastic makeup. Hells yeah.

Leonard's suit fabric

Leonard's suit fabric

Later that day…
Fabric Stash iPhone app is evil — I just noticed that I have a bunch of powder blue damask earmarked for a different high-concept costume. Well now, that *plus* the purple/lavender silks would be just the most awesomely faggy (in the most complimentary sense) 18th-century boy clothes evar.

And I really need to look at the preset embroidery motifs my mom’s machine can do (she sent me the PDF ages ago). Because I wonder if we could string together some of those floral designs into a fat border along the waistcoat edge…

For reference:

Screencaps from the “Marie Antoinette” movie version of Leonard — not that I’m recreating this costume, but it’s interesting. He is introduced right after the “I Want Candy” scene, and Leonard fits the queen with her tallest wig to date.

Leonard - Marie-Antonette screencap

Nice foppish suit in pinks and purples with tons of trim.

Leonard - Marie Antoinette movie screencap

Marie Antoinette and Leonard -- Note how his wig is as tall as hers!

Leonard - Marie-Antonette screencap

Details of his wig curls.

Leonard - Marie-Antonette screencap

Interesting that he does not have a bag over his wig's tail (which would have been quite fashionable).

Leonard - Marie-Antonette screencap

Wearing a bit of makeup.

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Crap, I just had an idea

Posted by Trystan on August 13th, 2010
Fascinator bought from Jilli

Fascinator bought from Jilli

Hate it when that happens.

First, I bought something from Jilli’s sale (DANGEROUS) — a fascinator with a glittery pink ship in sail, topped by black and white stripey sails (I think made by Noxenlux, or some other fabulous gothic milliner).

I fully intended to put this in an 18th-century wig. But I just realized how fan-freakin-tastic that would go with the pink and white stripey silk I got in the Garment District on Monday. Pink stripey petticoat, black jacket, and black wig with pink and black and white ship on top. FTW!

I can use the JP Ryan jacket pattern again and use the version that laces up the front — either with a black stomacher or *dun dun dun* a pink silk stomacher! Either the stripe (though that might be too wide; the stripes are 2″ wide) or another pink. Or even white with pink trim or something.

Gawd, when can I make this? I have a couple places I’d like to wear it but they’re coming up fast…

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Cuteness (to me, anyway)

Posted by Trystan on June 24th, 2010

I was in the sewing room, debating which fabric to use for La Junesse. I have a darker pink damask and a lighter pink damask, both about the same yardage and fiber content
(cotton mix), both prewashed even. I was laying the muslin pattern on each to visualize the bodice. The fabric patterns are in a different direction which could effect cutting layout.

Thomas walks by and asks what’s up. I explain and ask which one he likes. He immediately points to the darker pink. I ask why. “It’s more pink. That’s more you.”

Awwwwwww!

I mentioned that I thought the other fabric might look more historically accurate because of the damask pattern. He said, “So what?” You look good in pink.”

That’s my honey!

Pink Florentine fabric

Pink Florentine fabric

Rejected pink damask

Rejected pink damask

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Perhaps a French gown

Posted by Trystan on October 17th, 2009

When I found this red and gold damask, I didn’t immediately know what to make with it. I’d lusted after this fabric for at least a year. It’s from the Christopher Lowell home dec collection at Jo-Ann’s, it’s 100% polyester, and it’s usually $19.99/yard. Now, I am not a fiber snob — I’ll use anything that looks pretty. But I am a cheapskate, and I almost never buy anything over $10/yard. And I certainly was not going to pay double that for poly! Home dec fabrics regularly go on sale for 40% off at Jo-Ann’s, but that still didn’t do it for me. Until a Columbus Day sale, when they were 50% off. Bam! I had to buy the stuff!

Red & gold damask poly

Red & gold damask poly

Valois Tapestry, Louise & sister (image source: Wikimedia Commons)

Valois Tapestry, Louise & sister (image source: Wikimedia Commons)

But what to make with it? This coloring and pattern is popular among costumers for Venetian courtesan gowns, but I have a bunch of fabric already that I planned to use for that type of gown. What else? I started looking around for styles that used a dramatic damask pattern…

And I stumbled upon the image (left) of Louise de Lorraine and her sister, from the Valois Tapestries. So I did quick search and found some background info and more images about the tapestries on Wikipedia.

Valois Tapestry (image source: Wikimedia Commons)

Valois Tapestry, Marguerite & Francois (image source: Wikimedia Commons)

The tapestries were commissioned by Catherine de Medici and depict scenes from the French court of the 1570s. Several of the gowns shown are in beautiful, elaborate damasks or brocades. Perfect! See, in the SCA, my persona is lowland Scots, and like much of the gentry of the era, she has French family connections. And my favourite era is 1570s to 1610s.

I like the wide band trim / guards on the bodice and skirt of the image (left) of Marguerite de Valois with her brother François, Duke of Anjou. Her sleeves are probably the style I’d like to do too. But I don’t want a split skirt because I want to show off the lovely damask pattern and center it on both the bodice and skirt.

The image below has two more gowns that I love. The back of the gown on the left is my very favourite, although you can’t tell much from just the back. So I get to make up my own front, yay!

Valois Tapesty, fete detail (image source: Wikimedia Commons)

Valois Tapesty, fete detail (image source: Wikimedia Commons)

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Black & grey 1570s – the beginnings

Posted by Trystan on August 22nd, 2009

This is a pretty vague concept so far … I have this unusual black and grey fabric, 100% polyester (because I don’t care!), woven thistle / pomegranate pattern that’s rather 16th-century by way of Art Deco, with a nice supple hand.

black & grey fabric

Black & grey thistley poly fabric

So far, I’m thinking it’ll be good as a kirtle, perhaps with sleeves. There’s only 4.3 yards, it’s 60″ wide, and I want to piece it to show off the pattern. Over this, I want to wear a loose, sleeveless gown in black, probably wool from The Stash, perhaps trimmed with black velvet, if there’s enough in The Stash.

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Starting into stripeyland

Posted by Trystan on March 14th, 2009
Purple stripey fabric, black lace, & trims

Purple stripey fabric, black lace, & trims

I’m not making any promises, but I did start something today. I mocked up a polonaise bodice — based on ye olde Butterick not-very-accurate-but-darnit-it-fits-me bodice I used for Cosi Fan Tutte and the blue caraco. Modified the front for no stomacher (for the caraco, it was a zone, so I now I have another variation). Also modified the caraco sleeve because I wasn’t satisfied with that fit.

And I just finished cutting it all out of the mystery-content dark purple and black wide stripe I bought in Philadelphia’s garment district last year. Need to cut out a lining (bag lining FTW!). Have plenty for a big ol’ skirt, but this fabric is kind of heavyweight, so I might need to make a better skirt support than just my big bumroll. Perhaps a quilted petticoat a la Kendra.

Out of the blue, Mom offered to take me to the Super Jo-Ann in Fremont, and I ain’t passing that up! We have a sh*t-ton of coupons, so damage will be done in the trim aisle, at least. Because everything I make from now on will be loaded with trim, thank you Carnivale :-)

Later that day: Added some velvet ruched trim to the pile (see picture above). Also procured quilted cotton for a petticoat.

And I realized I’m going to have to make another chemise before the con because wearing 18th-century costumes several days in a row, well, um, that just requires more than one set of undies. Eww. Corset is no big deal, but the shift is right next to your skin.

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Thomas’ Carnevale outfit

Posted by Trystan on November 23rd, 2008

I got a mockup done of Thomas’ frockcoat for Carnivale. Now I can send the fabric and pattern out to Donna, since she offered to do the sewing as my birthday gift.

Using the Reconstructing History 1760s frock coat pattern, and surprisingly it didn’t suck. Sure, I just made a quick muslin, but it essentially worked. At least, once we got past user error! I accidentally sewed the back pieces together backwards and had Thomas try it on. I thought, man, this fits wonky in the armscye and and there’s a pokey bit in the center back that really should be smoothed out. Maybe if I go up a size, that’ll help the snugness under the arms … and then when I cut out new back pieces, I realized my problem. Doh!

Second try was a good fit, although the pattern seemed to run small — I settled on a size two sizes larger than what should have been his size according to the measurement chart on the pattern. I started out one size larger with the muslin (always a good practice, btw). He was trying on the muslin over a T-shirt and it *just* fit with adequate ease for arm/shoulder movement, so with a full-sleeved shirt and waistcoat, he’d need more room.

And since I haven’t included it yet, here’s the fabric for his coat:

Thomas' coat fabric

Thomas' coat fabric

It’s a mystery fiber content stuff, found at Jomar Fabrics in a skanky part of Philadelphia, with help from Donna and Kat, when I was in town on a business trip in June. Great deal on a lovely color and pattern. Thomas likes it a lot. It’ll look great with the black shirt and breeches he already has — would like some black velvet for the cuffs and pockets to tie it all together.

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More stuffs

Posted by Trystan on August 16th, 2008

Just bought 7 yards of black dupioni silk from fabrics.com. Hope it’s black enough — the color was called “midnight” and it was on sale, so I worry. I just keep reminding myself: this is a confection. It’s all about fantasy.

In other news, if I can design a reasonable pattern, Mom might embroider a waistcoat for Thomas. We were looking at a lot of costume books (while waiting during Thomas’ eye surgery), and she reminded me how much she enjoys embroidery. She’s so weird. But hey, I’ll take advantage ;-) A floral-ish pattern down the center of a waistcoat, with some beading, would look awesome and really add flair.

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Showing off

Posted by Trystan on August 6th, 2008
My carnevale gown sketch

My carnevale gown sketch

What I wanted to find at this year’s trip to the LA Garment District was something to go with this hot pink and silver (polyester) sari I’ve had in the Stash for years:

I made a sketch of my costume concept in Tara Maginnis’ drawing class at Costume College (shown at left). The idea is an 18th-century robe a la francaise in black, using the hot pink sari for the petticoat and stomacher and the black gown will be trimmed in hot pink.

Now I’m totally set on the pink action! The big inspiration came from the trim. It’s hot pink lace with sequins and was amazingly inexpensive. Then I got hot pink low-slub dupioni silk to back the sari (which is rather sheer) and to make ruched trim.

But the piece de la resistance is the petite hot pink tricorn made by Jennifer, aka The Ruby Raven. Kendra pointed it out at the LJ meetup at Costume College, and *bam* I was sold.

Still need to get the black silk (or a poly blend; it’ll get wet in Venice), but that doesn’t require color matching, so I can buy online.

Oh, and I wanted to buy 50 silver buttons for Thomas’ Carnivale coat. Mission accomplished, quite affordably.

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