Posts Tagged ‘failure is always an option’

Pattern hate / love

I hate the sleeves I put on the loose gown yesterday. They look like Henry VIII being an asshole. Another Reconstructing History pattern FAIL. Also, the collar is way too big (again, a reason not to follow the RH pattern; it’s so freakin’ *off* as far as size goes, either too big or too small, just WTF? of course, I should have noticed this earlier, but I was fussing with the other parts to make it less sack-like).

So I’m making up a totally different sleeve design that I cut out before breakfast/lunch. The good thing is that while I was making food, I found that the Fuse channel is playing nonstop Lada Gaga videos. Very entertaining and inspiring for working on creative projects.

Later that day…

The gallery below shows the before and after…

Seriously, this should be the last time I use a pattern as-is. Franken-patterning, sure. But wtf was I thinking using the thing — especially an RH pattern, known for questionable fit and style — as it was out of the envelope? I am so kicking myself.

No, I’m not one of you hot-shot draft everything from scratch people. Never will be, I suspect. I like using patterns. But I don’t like using them as the gods intended because so many pattern-makers are asshats. Really, the Truly Victorian gals are the only pattern designers worth the name and money. /end rant

So I ripped out those sleeves and ripped off the trim to reuse. Made my own sleeves a la below…

Even piped the panes, me, who said she’d never pipe again. But I had a reason this time; long story, I’ll tell it another day. Dead tired now.

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Doh!

No, I shouldn’t have been cocky about those sleeves — they don’t fit! I sewed rings and lacing in, and Thomas tried the doublet with sleeves on over his fancy puffy black Renaissance shirt. No dice. The sleeves were waaaaay too tight. Phooey. A little too short also, and I didn’t like the way they fit in the armscye either. WTF?

He tried it on over his less-puffy 18th-century black shirt, which fit better, but just did not look great. The collar wasn’t right and the sleeves still weren’t ideal. *shakes fist in sky*

So we unfastened the sleeves and ditched ‘em. Doublet becomes a fancy jerkin. I don’t have enough of the fabric left to make new sleeves right now (though it’s a home dec material from Jo-Ann’s that I might be able to find again). Could make black wool sleeves, if that fails. Grumble grumble. Sleevil strikes again!

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Sewing report or “some things shouldn’t take this this long”

Spent yesterday patterning Thomas’ doublet. FAIL. Scaled up the Tudor Tailor version using the very last scraps of my tracing paper.

When I could finally try the muslin on the ever-resistant Thomas, omg did it not fit. UGH. Somehow I was able to scale up and resize the pants pattern with no issues, but totally could not replicate that success with the doublet. Hah, and I thought the doublet would be the easier of the two! Back to the drawing board, literally.

This morning, I re-drafted the doublet pattern. I’ll sew up the muslin, but I realized I won’t be able to fit Thomas till, geez, don’t know when. Today is the Olympics gold-medal hockey game, then he plays hockey, then it’s the closing ceremony — too many distractions. He works very late on Monday due to a filming gig (in fact, I need to figure out a ride home from work!). I think he has another gig on Tuesday, not sure, and then he plays hockey Wednesday night. Thursday night, we have a date planned. Geez, uh, Friday fitting?

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I hate pants!

At least sewing them! There are only 5 pieces in this pattern, how hard can it be? The muslin went together pretty easy — of course, I could draw on the muslin and mark stuff easier than on the nice black wool.

Sewed up the legs, both the wool and the linen lining. Go to attach the legs at the crotch — wherein I realize I’ve sewn the fronts to the fronts and the backs to the backs, instead of the front to the back as it’s supposed to be. *headdesk*

Before I spend the next hour unpicking endless seams of black thread from black fabric, I need a stiff drink.

Boy clothes suck!

Later that evening…

10:29 PM! PANTS! DONE!

Ok, not totally, but now it’s all-but-fiddly-handwork + trim. OMG, how many things can one have to unpick on one garment? First it was all the major seams as previously noted. Then it was putting in one pocket backwards. Then it was having sewn up the fly instead of leaving it open. Sweet baby jeebuz. My seam ripper is worn out and tired tonight.

But I did it. 16th-century Venetian hose iz mostly done. Just have to do stuff like tack down the inside of the waistband, make buttonholes for the fly, hand-sew eyelets for lacing to doublet (that I won’t do until, y’know, there’s a doublet), hem the leg openings and put a loop and button there. They look like pants now though.

Not that I have any proof of this, you just have to trust me on it. Being that the model is truculent, pix won’t be forthcoming until an actual event where he wears the entire ensemble.

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Pleating hell

I F****KING HATE PLEATING!!!!!

Stupid polonaise. Stupid skirt. *This* is why I put the damn thing off all week.

I have to rip it out *again* bec. I still can’t get the back to lay down properly. Not all that pleased with the front either, but it’s not as entirely sucktastic as the back.

ARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

I did this nicely on CFT years ago. How the hell, no idea. Thought I was doing it the same way. Apparently not. @*#$)&%&#)$&)(*@#!!!#??@#

Later that night…

Polonaise back pleating, in-progress

Polonaise back pleating, in-progress

So much to do, just gotta keep on with it. This weekend, I’ve drawn out the design for a gothy 18th-century pocket for my mom to embroidery and went to the store and bought the threads for said project; pre-washed a whole lot of fabric for boring-but-necessary historical undergarments and ironed said fabric (I’m giving the stink-eye right now to anyone who doesn’t LOATHE ironing); unspiraled a straw hat to make into a new hat; designed a pattern for a capote / pouf hat brim (to use said straw in); and pleated the damn skirt into the stripey polonaise bodice (having to rip out the center-back pleats and re-do them three times). Not in that order.

I haven’t *finished* much of anything, and now I have to stop and shut down the sewing room so I can move furniture and empty the costume closet and rearrange the whole house so insulation can be installed Tuesday / Wednesday. Yippie.

To the right are the pleats I’ve been fighting with since about 4pm…

That’s over a bum roll, but I’ll definitely need to make a quilted petticoat to support the skirt better. The fabric is just too heavy.

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ABT (all but the trim)

I finally finished this sucker, despite a number of setbacks. Like discovering I had cut out two upper left sleeves out of the crewelwork, and of course, there wasn’t enough fabric left to cut a right upper sleeve. So instead of making the sleeves half crewel/half solid, they’re all solid. DOH!

The pattern was kind of a bother. The lining has this funky facing + bag lining, which totally over-complicates things. A simple bag lining would have been much smoother and tidier. (Cavet: Yes, I know, this is not historically accurate at all. The pattern doesn’t claim to be, and I wasn’t forcing it to be.)

What following this pattern made me think, though, is that I’m just advanced enough to be annoyed by patterns (unless they’re really smart patterns, like Truly Victorian). I mean, if I had just used the basic pieces, made my changes (just to the neckline, in this case), and made my own bag lining, then everything would have been simple as pie.

Anyway, I did everything but trim this jacket and figure out the closures. I might just pin it closed (accurate, easy, and lets me not have to decide :-). I’m also contemplating pink ribbons, because that’s both accurate and sounds a-freakin-dorable.

Trim will be black gimp around the godets (to cover the crappiness) and along the bottom edge and black venice lace around the neckline. Not sure if I have enough lace for cuffs, but I’d love that too. And to tie the sleeves visually to the jacket better, I’ll applique strips from the crewel-work shawl edge along the center-top of each sleeve.

Neckline and trim are rather inspired by this unidentified portrait.

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Tricky triangles of d00m

Jacobean jacket in progress

Jacobean jacket in progress

My so-far attempt at a Jacobean jacket. The muslin looked really good on me, and this part doesn’t look too bad, even though I could not line up the border pattern and I royally f-ed up the godets.

Speaking of which, does anyone have a trick for putting in triangular godets? I’ve never gotten them right. I sew half of it by machine and the point by hand (because I can’t fit it into the machine), and it always sucks.

How do you get a flat triangle into a cut-out slit? No comprende. I swear, if someone would put up a clear how-to video on YouTube, I’d paypal you $10 right now.

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Now on to my big screw-up, as chronicled on our Y!Group

I started my bodice outer layer…

Oopsie, I forgot to baste the silk to another layer; it’s not as flimsy as I thought and I was just on a roll and went straight to sewing. I’d hate to rip all that out and weaken the material. Will only 2 layers in the bodice be horrible? I have various weights of cotton for the lining, some quite sturdy. Plus boning.

However, I always bag-line which I know is wrong (it’s just so clean and tidy!). So how am I *supposed* to line this?

Is this where the dreaded piping comes in? Eeeek! Somebody hold me.

If you haven’t guessed by now, I’m going in no linear progression with this costume…

They tell me of my bodice mistake, on our Y!Group

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

There has to be another way. Pleasepleaseplease tell me there’s something you do about matching up things and basting them together and piping and stuff.

Because unpicking seams will ruin the piece I’ve cut, guarantee it. They’ll be weak, torn, wobbly, frayed, and useless.

I thought flatlining was only to give additional strength to fabrics! Because I flatline and *then* bag-line usually. Flatlining by itself wouldn’t be much of a lining.

*looks for puddle to drown self in*

Posted to LiveJournal

Ever feel like you’re the slow, dumb, fat, loser kid on the football team? Your friends kinda like you well enough, so they don’t kick you off, but they’d probably win a lot more games if you weren’t there.

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Thread shortage (yet crisis averted)

So here I am last night, prepping the top edge of the skirt for cartridge-pleating. I’m using a strip of gingham because (a) I have a boat-load leftover from a previous cartridge-pleated skirt, (b) it makes for super-fast and easy marking, that is, no marking needed, just count off the squares, which is simpler when one plans to sew in a car, and (c) it means I can reduce the bulk of folding over the velvet three times so I just fold once and enclose the raveling velvet edge in the gingham strip, and a little bit of raw cotton edge is waaaay less messy than velvet fuzz (I double-checked the last skirt I did the gingham trick with and yes, I left the gingham strip totally raw and no, it wasn’t a problem at all).

I pinned it all down, measuring the fold carefully. Get it all ready, then I realize, oh fuck, I AM OUT OF BUTTONHOLE TWIST. Y’know, the thread required to cartridge-pleat with. GRRRRRRRRRRR……. I have plenty of brown, I have tons of black, but there is only a tiny scrap of burgundy left on the spool. WTF?!? The skirt is burgundy. I’ve known this for, oh, ever. How did manage to not check for more buttonhole thread? I bought extra regular thread, even though burgundy is one of my “you always have several spools on hand” colors. I always knew cartridge-pleating was in my future, yet I didn’t buy an extra spool of buttonhole twist. I am an eeedeeeot <—Ren from Ren and Stimpy voice.

When Mom came over last night to get the sleeve she’s going to bead (THANK YOU, MOM!!! I LOVE MY MOMMY!!!), I pulled a similarly stupid stunt. The previous night, when I was separating out the materials, I panicked, thinking I didn’t have enough of the big burgundy beads. The extras I found were a slightly different color and size. So I showed them to her and said to start with the same ones I did and hope that she didn’t have to use the extras. Then, while she was there, I was poking thru the bin o’ junk for this costume, and *ta da* there were two more tubes of the original matching beads. Which hadn’t been there before. Crazy. So now we had plenty of beads for both sleeves and probably for the forepart too.

But I’m still back at no cartridge-pleating in the car this weekend. I can’t bead the sleeves because that’s just too complicated to do in my lap. Maybe, just maybe I could pearl the trim in the car. That’s a bit simpler because it’s a straightforward pattern and only one kind of bead, a larger bead at that. Also a less delicate fabric. But I’d have to cut all the trim pieces out tonight.

And tonight, we have to go buy chains for the Prius, plus I have to find and try on my ski clothes, then pack for the weekend. So I’m not thinking that I’ll get my act together for sewing something in the car. Especially something that isn’t crucial. Unlike the cartridge-pleating, which IS crucial. Doh.

Well, as soon as we return on Sunday afternoon, I’ll jump on a bus down to Jo-Ann and buy the thread. I *will* get this thing done in time, I will. I just feel like I’ve mismanaged the damn thing so much, like I’m one of those slacker loser costumers who puts shit off till the last minute. But I have been working on it, just my stupid life and circumstances keep getting in the way, dammit.

Note: After much wise council from the Pin Posse, I ended up using the brown buttonhole twist for the top row of cartridge-pleating — it didn’t show at all — and regular burgundy thread for the bottom row of pleating — it was perfectly strong enough. My gals know their shit! I sewed it all in the car with no problems.

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Dr. StrangePattern or How I Learned to Stop Worrying & Love the Fitting

Lesson Learned Yesterday: Make muslins out of fabrics more similar to the final weight of the garment fabric.

Lesson Learned Today: Don’t cut fabric before you’ve had your morning coffee.

It seems that a lot of the problem was that, while the previous muslin and pattern fit beautifully, a big reason that didn’t translate was because my garment fabric was much heavier than the muslin, thus it wanted to do very different things than the pattern insisted upon.

When Bridget came over, she did a lot of fiddling with the shoulder seams first, but what ended up changing the most was actually the side pieces. She pretty much re-drafted those. The shoulders moved a smidge, the collar was moved around some, and I re-cut the fronts too, partly because I’d noticed an imperfection in the fabric that had been bugging me all along and partly because there was some armhole wrinkling that we needed to dart and draft out. The only piece I didn’t re-cut was the back — we salvaged it by just trimming the sides and shoulders a wee bit. All in all, the changes were small, but there were a lot of them in different places. The amount of fabric that moved was barely inches, but it was critical inches in fit.

The result is a lot smoother and has none of the weird chunks of fabric sticking out in odd places that baffled me two days ago. Not sure if these pictures really capture it, especially since I haven’t clipped the curves or pressed anything yet (plus, I’m wearing it over a Victorian chemise, which is bunchy), but trust me, this is an improvement.

However, when I went to cut out the new fronts this morning, I cut them with the nap facing the wrong way. Doh! That’s what I get for cutting before having had my coffee (not to mention, I was coming off a migraine). I won’t try that again.

Good thing I have plenty of fabric and also good thing I’m short. The skirt won’t take a ton of fabric on lil’ ol’ me, and should be able to eek out the two pairs of sleeves I still need (the one simple sleeves for 12th Night, then the fancy Knollys sleeves for the Elizabethan Feast). I still believe I can make it to 12th Night! I’m keepin’ the faith! I can finish the basic bodice and sleeves, then the skirt, which will be closed. That’s good enough.

I’d like a hat, but in a pinch, I can wear a black snood and flat cap from my old faire days. Besides, Sarah is supposed to be The Prettiest at 12th Night anyway :-)

Oh and Thomas and I made a BevMo run today, so the bar will be well stocked for 12th Night. We have our priorities straight.

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