Posts Tagged ‘faux-embroidered Jacobean jacket’

Faux-Embroidered Jacobean Jacket

I finally got to wear this Jacobean jacket at Mists Bardic and received compliments & queries about how I made it and what it was all about (update: I’ve worn it many times since, and people always ask if I embroidered the whole thing — heck no!, I tell them :-). I wore it with a burgundy velvet cartridge-pleated skirt from my closet and a black velvet cap trimmed in silver cord, pearls, and silver fish charms from my old renfaire days.

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Kinda sorta complete

Finished something! Well, except for closures (doesn’t everyone need a little closure?). But there’s enough trim on the black Jacobean jacket, enough to call it baked. ‘Cept do I want bows or not?

I could add pink ribbon bows up the front, prob. four of them. Might still need to close with pins because there’s an odd overlap necessary. as I was trying to preserve the edge crewelwork.

Bows or not? They’re accurate, but part of me thinks it would look silly and not in a good way (you know I’m usually fond of the silliness). But does it look too plain with nothing in the center front? Hmm…

Pity I won’t be able to wear it until probably 12th Night. *sigh* It’ll go nicely with a burgundy velveteen cartridge-pleated skirt from the closet.

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Funny (to me)

I just sewed a bunch of trim on the Jacobean jacket and I’m still kinda drunk.

And I think the jacket could use more trim. That’s what I love about Elizabethan and Victorian bustle eras — shit-tons of trim. Add more, then add a little bit more on top of that. Just in case.

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Just keep sewing

I sewed a lot of trim on my black Jacobean jacket. But there’s still more to do! Got the godets outlined in black braid, put on the lace at the collar, and eeked out a bit more of the crewel edging for cuffs. But I want to edge the sleeves’ crewel stripes in a narrow loop lace (looks more like a braid, and I don’t have enough gimp), and put braid along the bottom edge.

Aaaaand I need to figure out fastenings for the front of the jacket. I want to use pink ribbon bows and may, except the front overlaps to show off the crewel edging. Not sure where the ribbon would fit in that design. Might also need pins (hidden snaps?) anyway to close smoothly.

I’m really in a costuming mood right now. Mostly because I want to go to events, but since I can’t, I want to make a bunch of clothes so when I *can* go again, I’ll look really good. Except the heat makes it really f-ing difficult to work! So frustrating.

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ABT (all but the trim)

I finally finished this sucker, despite a number of setbacks. Like discovering I had cut out two upper left sleeves out of the crewelwork, and of course, there wasn’t enough fabric left to cut a right upper sleeve. So instead of making the sleeves half crewel/half solid, they’re all solid. DOH!

The pattern was kind of a bother. The lining has this funky facing + bag lining, which totally over-complicates things. A simple bag lining would have been much smoother and tidier. (Cavet: Yes, I know, this is not historically accurate at all. The pattern doesn’t claim to be, and I wasn’t forcing it to be.)

What following this pattern made me think, though, is that I’m just advanced enough to be annoyed by patterns (unless they’re really smart patterns, like Truly Victorian). I mean, if I had just used the basic pieces, made my changes (just to the neckline, in this case), and made my own bag lining, then everything would have been simple as pie.

Anyway, I did everything but trim this jacket and figure out the closures. I might just pin it closed (accurate, easy, and lets me not have to decide :-). I’m also contemplating pink ribbons, because that’s both accurate and sounds a-freakin-dorable.

Trim will be black gimp around the godets (to cover the crappiness) and along the bottom edge and black venice lace around the neckline. Not sure if I have enough lace for cuffs, but I’d love that too. And to tie the sleeves visually to the jacket better, I’ll applique strips from the crewel-work shawl edge along the center-top of each sleeve.

Neckline and trim are rather inspired by this unidentified portrait.

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Tricky triangles of d00m

Jacobean jacket in progress

Jacobean jacket in progress

My so-far attempt at a Jacobean jacket. The muslin looked really good on me, and this part doesn’t look too bad, even though I could not line up the border pattern and I royally f-ed up the godets.

Speaking of which, does anyone have a trick for putting in triangular godets? I’ve never gotten them right. I sew half of it by machine and the point by hand (because I can’t fit it into the machine), and it always sucks.

How do you get a flat triangle into a cut-out slit? No comprende. I swear, if someone would put up a clear how-to video on YouTube, I’d paypal you $10 right now.

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Reminders to self

Jacobean jacket muslin

Jacobean jacket muslin

There’s no point even considering hand-sewing something when the pattern you’re using (Jacobean Jacket by Dawn Anderson Designs) isn’t terribly accurate to begin with. It’s not horribly inaccurate — I can see exactly why the designer chose to put a seam there and that *is* accurate for doublet bodices in the era, even though it’s not found in the little jackets. But it’s an obvious enough inaccuracy that anyone who might be impressed by hand-sewing would be automatically bothered by the seam placement.

(Looking at pix of extant jackets and the one in Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion, they don’t have a (essentially a shallow princess) seam down the front. But an Elizabethan doublet bodice could use this kind of seam, afaik; so I can see why it’s there. Also, the pattern does claim it’s a “modern fit, ” and the front seam makes for easier fitting than having a far-more-curved front edge and angled side piece.)

Furthermore, when you’re making the whole thing in an entirely (well, not entirely, it’s the right fiber content and style, just wrong color) inaccurate fabric, there’s even less point in doing something silly like hand-sewing. Or worrying about the inaccurate seams. FFS.

If I really gave a crap about that much vaunted “accuracy,” I wouldn’t be doing it my way to begin with. Bonus point: the muslin looks adorable and fit in the first try (note for Great Pattern Review: this one runs small; good thing I made it two sizes bigger “just in case”). I’m modifying the neckline just for the heck of it (prettier), though I want to see if any of my lace will fit first.

Honestly, what I care about and what most of us really care about is looking good. If historical accuracy were foremost, more folks would be making a lot more lower class stuff instead of strutting about in silks and jewels. Because most people in the past didn’t wear high fashion. It’s like reenactors the year 3000 only dressing in what Paris Hilton wore in 2008, even though most people in 21st century America wore stuff from Target and Old Navy.

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