Posts Tagged ‘kirtle’

Fabulous Second-Hand Garb

Tailor's shop, Amman Sachs, 1568

Tailor's shop, Amman Sachs, 1568

Buying clothing second-hand is very well-documented in the 16th century, and really, in most eras. Clothing and fabric were big investments before the post-World-War-II manufacturing boom that lead to our current state of disposable fast fashion. If a garment could be used again, it was. Best dresses became second-best or everyday dresses, garments were altered when body shape changed due to age or maternity or garments were passed on to other family members or servants or they were sold to the second-hand clothing dealers.

There was a brisk used-garment trade in Elizabethan London, which Laura Mellin has a brief article on, worth reading.

Anyway, that’s a long-winded intro to say that I bought some cool stuff at the GBACG Costumers Bazaar this past weekend! Sarah, Kendra, and I shared a booth to sell things, and we all did clear out our closets and fabric stashes somewhat.

Of course, I ended up spending half of what I made on amazingly wonderful items. Not much, but some really lovely things — a few yards of embroidered silk, a bunch of pretty wool, a practically new Elizabethan corset, and best of all, a fabulous new 16th-century doublet, in fact, the one made and worn by Genevieve de la Mer Bleue here on Featured Attyre. I’m lucky to call her a friend, and I already knew how exquisite her work was. A while ago, she had sold this doublet to a mutual friend, and now that woman was clearing out her closet. This piece shall be thrice loved, indeed. In fact, looking at the wool I bought at the same time, that will make the perfect kirtle to wear with this doublet. A new outfit is born…

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1570s Black & Grey Patterned Kirtle

Long time, no update! Nearly a year later, I realized I could/should wear this outfit. I was a little concerned about the size (having started it so long ago), but realized it fit rather nicely without the corset. Just needed an additional set of eyelets on each side for better lacing, plus hooks and eyes at the sleeve wrists, which were quick work. (more…)

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Hey, here’s that project

I finally trimmed the neckline of the black and grey kirtle, so it’s presentable. I’d like to add trim to the sleeve wings and maybe add guarding at the hem, but those are not crucial. I could wear it as-is. So yay, I have a new outfit to wear, instead of wearing the same things I’ve been wearing for the past 3 years to SCA events.

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It’s officially a dress

Massive progress! Friday after Thanksgiving, I made the skirt and painstakingly pleated it into the bodice. I usually have trouble attaching pleats to a V-shaped waistline (I’ve done it successfully once and since forgotten how I achieved that). But I figured out a way again. Let’s see if writing it down helps me remember…

After pleating and pinning the skirt, I laid the bodice on top of the skirt. I pin-marked where the V point should hit in the center-front of the skirt. Then, with right sides facing each other, I hand-basted one side of the bodice’s V to the skirt using buttonhole thread and relatively small stitches. Then I repeated along the other side of the V. The point got a little messy, of course, but when I turned the bodice out, I could hand-sew the point down from the inside carefully.

This pretty much worked! I liked the look of it and didn’t have to remove the basting stitches. I sewed over it on the machine for extra strength.

On the Saturday after Thanksgiving, Kendra and Sarah came over for a day of stitchin’ and bitchin’, and we each got tons done. I added wings to the shoulders of this dress and made the sleeves (fully lined and finished). I do need to figure out a method of attaching the sleeves, as I want them to be removable. Either I need lacing strips (ugh; would have to ask Mom again!) or buy some soldered rings, because no more loops — those keep ripping out.

Then hem the skirt and this baby is done!

On to the overgown, for which I need more wool. Sarah helped me estimate how much fabric I need, and the last piece I have in The Stash isn’t enough (it’s barely over 2 yards). But it’ll be put to good use on another project, no worries.

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Almost eyeletted

Ran out of thread! Sewed all but three eyelets on this bodice (while sitting around at Grandmom’s house in the days after my paternal grandfather’s funeral in Pensacola, Florida).

Mom showed me how to do a proper buttonhole stitch instead of the basic overcast binding thing I learned from the RenTailor site. But my hand-sewn eyelets are still as crappy as ever. Now they just have that little ridge that the buttonhole stitch creates. *shrug*

I may finish up these last three eyelets at stitch ‘n bitch this Wednesday, but I have to prep the pink MQoS pieces first. Want to take those to Boston. I may be getting the hang of this sewing on the road thing…

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Random sewing on random project

Bodice progress

Bodice progress

Had a strange itch to sew today, so I tinkered with the Slipcover Kirtle pattern to make it work for this project. That previous kirtle ended up a smidge too loose the one time I wore it at an event, which irritated me. Took out the pattern and fussed with the straps and the armscye — that seemed to give a much smoother fit over my stays.

The muslin and lining versions looked nice, so I risked it and cut the fashion fabric. Sewed the top edges (bag lining, thankyouverymuch) and hand-sewed the armscye in.

Folded back and pinned the sides to judge where the lacing should be. Gave a little bit of a gap, just in case it turns out too loose again (or in the incredibly off chance I lose weight in the far distant future ;-). It’s easy enough to put a placket underneath the lacing.

Now the bodice is all set for some hand-bound eyelets. Joy.

Bodice progress

Bodice progress

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Black & grey 1570s – the beginnings

This is a pretty vague concept so far … I have this unusual black and grey fabric, 100% polyester (because I don’t care!), woven thistle / pomegranate pattern that’s rather 16th-century by way of Art Deco, with a nice supple hand.

black & grey fabric

Black & grey thistley poly fabric

So far, I’m thinking it’ll be good as a kirtle, perhaps with sleeves. There’s only 4.3 yards, it’s 60″ wide, and I want to piece it to show off the pattern. Over this, I want to wear a loose, sleeveless gown in black, probably wool from The Stash, perhaps trimmed with black velvet, if there’s enough in The Stash.

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