Posts Tagged ‘ruffs’

Bat Rebato

And then, on the last weekend before the con, I finally made it. Just the wire rebato, not a new outfit (perhaps another day). I decided I could wear it with some 16th-century things in my wardrobe, in particular, the rebato could hold up the 1590s ruff quite well.

First, I sketched a design of three bats in a semi-circle the same size as the existing ruff. Then I used black millinery wire to make the rebato. Much twisting with needlenose pliers and fingers ensued. Took a couple hours, and I feel like I could do better. Pretty good for the first one, and the concept worked very well. I added ribbon ties that pinned at the front of my gown, and the rebato held the ruff up quite nicely all day.

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What dreams may come

This idea is brought to you courtesy of strange dreams about CC27. Kevin and Radar were each trying to get me into their own masquerade entries, both very complicated and strange. Kevin’s had s’thing to do with machinery he was testing for work and demonstrating it on stage with lights and costumes. Radar’s featured interpretive dance and clocks, like a steampunk ballet.

But the thing that gave me a costume idea was a reminder that CC27 has a “vampires, villains, and vixens” theme. In my dream, people were wandering the halls in super-cool costumes in this theme, and I kept thinking, dang, I need to go change into something awesome, because c’mon, I am a Renowned Net.Goth, the original Gothic Martha Stewart, I can’t be slacking here!

And what have I been obsessing about recently? Patterns of Fashion 4. So ta-da: Bat Rebato. Y’know how those lovely rebatos were worked in pretty floral designs, the wire twisted into pattens that replicated the lace often. Well, I have a bunch of lovely black 1920s lace from my stepdad’s mom. I could make a big stand-up lace collar to frame my face. I have a stash of black millinery wire to make the frame to hold up said collar. Why not have the frame be in a cool pattern? Like bats! This would be (a) GOTH AS FUCK and (b) cool for SCA because my device (should it get approved) features a bat. WIN! And it uses stuff from The Stash.

I can wear it at CC27 with some goth outfit I slap together, then wear it with one of the 1610s gowns I’m planning for SCA use later.

I’ll get started on it after we return from Italy/U.K.

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1590s Ruff

Closeup of the finished ruff, worn at SCA 12th Night 2009 — complete photos from the event (and full outfit images) on Flickr.

Closeup of 1590s ruff

Closeup of 1590s ruff

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Now with bling

Beading — Hard to tell but the red dots are faux garnet beads between each curl. About a quarter done.

Ruff with beads

Ruff with beads

Man, iPhone camera blows for macro pix! Looks better in person, promise. But I’m sick of sewing tonight. Gonna finish off this bottle of wine and call it a night :-) *sigh* Wish I had tiny teardrop pearls to hang from the bottom edge of the ruff … maybe someday!

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Pinned into submission

Vintage curling irons

Vintage curling irons

Ruff has been painstakingly heated ‘n pleated. Used a vintage curling iron heated in a dry saucepan (which I might have ruined in the process; should check that) — could get about 8 pleats set until the iron cooled off. Then I could pin down 8 more while the iron heated up again. And I went over the whole thing twice.

Supposed to go over the back side so the curls are smooth, but I’m not confident that the pleats will really hold by themselves yet. There’s so much fabric in it, the thing tends to *sproing* out if you remove a pin. When I’d set the pleats, I gave it a good dusting of spray starch and left it to dry overnight.

1590s ruff being pinned & curled

1590s ruff being pinned & curled

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Recipe for baked ruff a la 1590s

Ingredients:

  • 4 yards cotton or linen, tightly cartridge-pleated
  • 4 yards lace trim*** (optional, but recommended)
  • cotton or linen neckband to fit
  • sturdy thread
  • 2 cups liquid starch
  • 2 cups water
  • metal safety pins

Assemble first four ingredients into ruff. Mix liquids in bowl, and soak ruff in liquid thoroughly. Wring out liquid and let drip-dry for a few hours.

Use safety pins to hang ruff by neckband from oven rack at highest position. Bake at 300 degrees for 15 minutes, or until you smell something burning. Remove mostly-dry ruff.

Serve warm with a side of frizzed hair and pearls.

***Note: Metallic lace may crisp.

Baking really does stiffen the starched fabric, omg, yes. But the metallic lace? Um, obviously has a little plastic in it. Stinky kitchen! The lace curled up a touch, but it’s uncurling as I iron it (I’m about halfway thru). The ironing and setting the figure eights is gonna take for-f-ifng-ever tho!

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I blame Janet Arnold

Ruff in the oven

Ruff in the oven

Yes, I’m actually baking my ruff. See page 126 of Patterns of Fashion 4.

Hope this works!

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Steps forward

Finished hand-sewing gold lace on edge of hemmed fabric strip for 1580s/1590s head-on-a-plate ruff. Now, I guess I start cartridge-pleating the ruff and/or make the neckband — that is to say, assemble the ruff?

Later that day…

Fingertips iz sore. Finished cartridge-pleating a smidge less than 4 yards into a 16″ neckband. Didn’t attach it to the neckband because I needed a break (and may have to redo the neckband as it doesn’t look like the right size).

Holding the thing up to my neck, it look like a clown ruffle. A gold-edged clown ruffle, but still.

I found some vintage curling irons with wood handles on eBay for $4 (shipping included). Between that and loads of starch and steam, I hope the ruff will look less clown, more 1590s.

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Stuff and things

Trimming the ruff's edge

Trimming the ruff's edge

Started working on my ruff for 12th Night. A quarter of the way through applying the lace by hand (ew, but necessary).

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Ruff beginnings

Next on the docket, that head-on-a-plate ruff for my 1580s gown. Because I hath seen Patterns of Fashion 4 and it doth rock. Yea verily forsooth!

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