At least two years ago, I was inspired by the HBO series Gentleman Jack (2019) to start a jacket with the intention of recreating this outfit worn by Anne Lister: I mean, really, I already had a vintage top hat! So I started with a basic Period Impressions pattern, fitted it to me, and cut
Specifically, this is a review of Patterns of Fashion 5: The Content, Cut, Construction, and Context of Bodies, Stays, Hoops, and Rumps c. 1595-1795 by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani, & Luca Costigliolo with Sebastien Passot, Armelle Lucas & Johannes Pietsch, to give the full title and credit to all involved. It’s on sale exclusively from
This is a custom-made Venetian courtesan gown commission for Lady Léa de Villaverde, first worn at the SCA West Kingdom 12th Night, January 2015. Materials were provided by my client. She wanted a late 16th-century Venetian gown in the classic “courtesan” style with the ladder-laced front, made of a rich damask from her fabric stash.
I was a little bit surprised when I sewed up the sleeve side seam, turned it right-side out, & *ta da* the sleeve looked liked I’d hoped & planned it would look all along. Sure, there were some fiddly bits to fix like trim not lining up perfectly & basting lines still showing, but those
I’ve spent a week on these sleeves, & they’re still not done! Took three nights to trim them (piping, two kinds of trim by hand, then pearls), & a full day to figure out the stiffening for the panes & the best way to attach them. Then I redid the white silk taffeta inside puff
Who’s idea was it to make crazy complicated sleeves? Oh yeah, mine. Well, I’m chugging along… Tuesday night, piped all the panes of the slashed puffs (say that five times fast). Yeah, the girl who said she’d never pipe anything again after the Eugenie Project is on her second piped sleeves. Never say never. But
The only kind of pattern drafting I enjoy is making sleeves. Not sure why, but it’s something I feel like I can handle. Maybe because the fit isn’t as weirdly tricky as going over the bust & around the waist. There’s only the armscye/sleeve head to deal with & then it’s done. The fit is
Despite the insulation, my sewing room is 5-10 degrees hotter than the rest of the house, thanks to a corner bank of windows facing whatever direction the sun is most of the day. I need blackout curtains there, although that would make the cats sad (the window seat under said windows is their faaaaaavorite place
I hate the sleeves I put on the loose gown yesterday. They look like Henry VIII being an asshole. Another Reconstructing History pattern FAIL. Also, the collar is way too big (again, a reason not to follow the RH pattern; it’s so freakin’ *off* as far as size goes, either too big or too small,
No pix, but I made ginormous sleeves for the loose gown. Not sure how I feel about that. On one hand, I like obnoxious fashion details. On the other hand, these are pretty freakin’ obnoxious, and it’s a good thing I didn’t pad them like I was tempted to do. I almost feel up to
It’s officially a dress because it has sleeves. Sewn on even. The croissants shoulder rolls aren’t actually sewn on in these pix, but they are now in real life. The velvet trim is sewn on neither in the pix nor in real life, it’s merely pinned down to show what I’ll be going for. Colors
Just recording weeknight progress so it feels like I’m getting somewhere…
There’s a smell of fear in the air — I looked at the calendar. I realized I have way too many costumes to produce in a shockingly short amount of time… Motivation won’t come to me, I just have to force myself to get shit done. NOW. Thus, tonight I cleared away some sewing room
Not the I’m bragging, but I don’t see what the fuss is about sleeves. They’re pretty easy. My sleeves probably don’t look that good to anyone else, but I like them. They go together fine, no big stress, not like the strum und drang I hear from so many other costumers when it comes time
It’s only a paper stomacher… The easiest thing to pattern. Just stick some paper under the francaise and draw a shape. Smooth out the lines. *Ta da* It’s a stomacher. For the actual item, I used an inner layer of white mid-weight canvas-y stuff, covered w/the pink silk on both sides and the sari fabric